How
do I prepare for the residential carpet installation?
(for most ground level residential installations,
for high rise or limited access, other procedures will apply)
Prior to carpet
installation
- If possible, make driveway
available for cutting of the carpet.
- Clear all areas of furniture
unless the installers are providing basic furniture moving.
- If you are painting walls and
baseboards prior to carpet installation, make sure you paint
all the way down the baseboard below the level of the new
carpet.
When the installers are
providing basic furniture moving services, the customer
must still:
- Disconnect wiring and cables
from electronic equipment.
- Remove small items from
the tops of furniture to be moved, and place them out of the
installation area, i.e. ash trays, books and magazines, plants
and other small items.
- Empty china cabinets, hutches,
bookcases and remove glass shelves..
- Installers will not move
"objects of art" or non-replaceable "heirloom
items", it is up to the customer to move these prior to
installation.
- Clear closet floors of shoes,
clothing and other items. Low hanging clothing should also be
moved.
- Remove sheets from beds.
Drain and dismantle water beds (installers will move the
disassembled pieces).
- Installers will not disassemble
or assemble furniture. Examples of assembly furniture are
anchored or joined wall units, pier units, waterbeds, Murphy
beds, and some oversized desks and workstations. On a case by
case basis, installers may on occasion move assembled
furniture, pianos, or pool tables depending on size, weight,
and location, but these are best handled by specialty movers.
- Restrict pets to areas other
than work areas.
At time of installation:
- First of all, do a walk-through
with the installer to show him the areas receiving carpet. If
you or the installer have any concerns or questions regarding
installation , discuss it with the installers at the very
beginning. Notify the installer of any under-carpet wires for
alarms, speakers, phones, etc.
- Minor foundation cracks and
expansion joints are common in concrete slabs and unless the
crack is severe, it will not effect the proper installation or
wear of new carpet. Most cracks do not need fill or caulk for
proper installation of the new carpet. Severe cracks that are
not level may create a wear area and may be felt through the
carpet and pad. Severe cracks that are not level should be
filled and beveled with floor fill to eliminate the sharp edge
(high side of the crack). The rise will most likely still be
felt through the carpet and pad but the sharp edge will be
eliminated. Filling or caulking cracks is at additional cost
to the customer depending on the severity of crack and the
amount of time and fill required. Most severe cracks are
already known to the homeowner, as they can be felt through
the existing flooring. Customers may also opt to fill minor
cracks at additional cost, though it generally is not
necessary.
- Tack strips are only
replaced when necessary, i.e. will not hold the new stretch
due to rusted out pins or strips that are rotted by persistent
exposure to water or animal urine. The installers will decide
which tack strips to replace, reinforce with nails, or back up
with new strips. If a customer wants "all new" tack
strips, this will be at additional charge for time and
materials. Be aware that in most cases there is no
benefit to knocking out and replacing existing tack strips
unless they are damaged as mentioned above.
- A note about the appearance
of your new carpet when it is first unwrapped and rolled out.
Because the carpet is rolled "tight" for shipping,
the yarns are highly compressed and flattened in one
direction. The carpet will look thinner and reflect light
differently than the sample you viewed. Colors will look
different outdoors than indoors due to the difference in color
temperature of the light sources. Color hues are often cast
due to wall coloration, tinting on windows or glass doors.
When the carpet is inside the home and it has been stretched
and vacuumed, its appearance will be similar to the sample
viewed in the same light source. Cut pile carpets will become
fuller and feel thicker after the twist in yarns has had time
to relax from it's highly compressed shipping condition.
After the installation:
- Normal installation methods may
lightly scuff baseboards and walls. The installers will use
extreme care to minimize these occurrences.
- Seam appearance generally
improves with vacuuming and normal foot traffic. See
"will I see seams " in general questions
page.
- Shedding and fuzzing are a
common occurrence on all staple cut pile carpets and may fill
up vacuum cleaner bags quickly and sometimes even clog the
vacuum cleaner. What appears to be a lot of fiber loss is
actually a minute percentage of the carpet weight. The amount
of fiber ends released will diminish with time and vacuuming.
- Shading, foot printing, and
vacuum tracking are common, to varying degrees, with all cut
pile carpets.
- If you fill tacks or nails at
flooring transitions areas (where carpet meets vinyl or tile).
Lightly tap them down with a hammer. Tack strips are used to
hold the stretch at most flooring edge transitions, the
installer taps the nails down during installation but may
occasionally miss some.
- Roll Crush or "nap
reversal" occurs in repeating portions of the
"carpet roll", where pile yarn has been flattened do
to the weight of the carpet roll itself. These areas of
flattened yarn usually appear as widthwise bands of lighter or
darker color, although the color is not different. Roll crush
is not a manufacturing defect and most roll crush will
disappear after the yarn has been allowed sufficient time to
blossom. Stubborn crush marks are removed with steam.
- For warrantee purposes, it is
important to maintain your carpet as recommended by the carpet
manufacturer.
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2002-2019
(New Frontiers Marketing Inc - Carpet Source) All rights reserved. |